Friday, June 12, 2009

JP Ryan Stay Pattern Review

So would I now recommend the 18th century stays pattern by JP Ryan? On some grounds definately...

  1. The pattern is well drafted. 
  2. The instructions are clear
  3. It is a simple garment to make, just time consuming. All seams are straight and everything fits together easily. 
  4. It's a good price, and the maker sends the pattern out quickly
  5. It does make an authentic set of working stays, 18th century era. You will get the correct silhouette for the working class. 
But I have some reservations too...
  1. The pattern is good for someone without a deep natural waist. If your figure isn't very curvaceous then this pattern will be good for your body shape without alterations. If you have a large bust and tiny waist (like me) the number of alterations will drive you insane as you try and make this tube fit you. Consider drafting a pattern from scratch if you have the expertise. 
  2. Although not a difficult garment it could be easier. Many pretty 18th century stays you see on the web are not based on this type of stays but upon one called "Diderot" stays. They are made from just 3 pieces and are partially boned making construction a simpler and less time consuming process. If it were possible to actually buy a diderot style pattern I would have done so. Unfortunately the only pattern is in Norah Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, which requires you know how to do pattern drafting. Why no-one has made a commercial pattern on this simpler stay variety I do not know.  Edited to now add that the Butterick Historical Stays 4484 pattern appears to be a Diderot style stays pattern and from what I've heard is a good choice.
  3. Stays which are back lacing only are period correct as many of them were so in the 18th century. But then many people also had household maids who would help them get dressed. You really need front lacing on this type of garment so you'll have to add it to this stays pattern. 
  4. The maker advises using a mix of steel and plastic bones. To be honest I think steel is a big waste of money in this garment. Steel is only necessary when the stays are partially boned. With a fully boned corset cable ties provide incredible hold.
  5. While this type of stays are authentic they are not really what I had in mind. They didn't provide me with the desired conical silhouette without serious alterations. And the finished item as per the pattern isn't that attractive. I really wanted a set of fancy high fashion stays 18th century style. The diderot style stays are more what I desired. 
To sum up. If you are a die-hard historical costumer, this pattern is the ants pants. You can bone it with reed and handsew the whole thing knowing you are creating a reproduction of actual stays from the period. The instructions and pattern are high quality. If on the otherhand you are into costuming in the spirit of the era. Meaning you want the look, and it's ok if you have a bit of modernity here and there as long as the overall look is true to the era, then go with the diderot style stays. They are late century but much prettier and more satisfying to our  (movie inspired) ideas of what the 18th century was all about. 

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