18th Century Stays - Redux

As I'm now quite close to finishing my first ensemble I'm naturally turning my attention to the next project. And as much I'd love that project to be a hat, I have a terrible feeling it's going to be stays instead. One of the great disappointments of costuming is that the more you wear the underwear the more acutely you realise just what's wrong with it. Every time I put my current stays on I'm reminded why I want to make a new pair. Prettiness and ease of wearing.

So now I'm clear as to what it is I'll be making I'd better make a list so I don't run off into the bushes on a wild goose chase. Trust me, stays are painful enough to make without flailing about with fabric and no clue as to where you are going.

Diderot Style Why? Two reasons, they are cute and they are vastly simpler to sew than the 10 piece set I tried earlier. Diderot stays are usually 4 pieces, partially boned and many costumers whack them together in a weekend. And the best part is I can modify my existing bodice pattern to make them.

Front lacing with stomacher Experience tells me that front lacing is a must if you are not in possession of household servants. But I really like the idea of front lacing with adjustment even better. Hence the stomacher which allows you to lace your stays as open or closed as your mood takes you. Plus pretty ribbon lacing across the front is sooo theatrically cute.

All silk construction I have amazingly managed to find some very stiff and heavy weight silk drill which has the heft in it to make full silk stays. I'll cover it with the dupion I also scored in the same shopping trip. Hopefully it will be less "thermal" than my current pair.

Permanent straps this timeActually there's no comfort or fit reason for this, I just like the look of strapped stays better and since my pattern already has straps why not?

And now that I look at that list I have to warn you. There is not one single pair of extant 18th century stays that actually looks like that. So I will definately be making 18th century "inspired stays" and stray very far from the realms of historical costuming.